The fit of a ring isn’t always consistent. Any number of factors may affect the way your ring feels on your finger. Weight loss, weight gain, and even changes in temperature can make a ring that once fit perfectly feel as though it is in need of an adjustment.
How should one determine if a ring needs to be re-sized? Well, first, it is essential to know what a proper fit feels like. The ring should slide onto the finger easily with slight pressure and without the need to force. When removing the ring, it should tug at the knuckle. When the hand is dropped to the side, the ring should not slide off, but should be retained in place by the knuckle without excessive sliding or spinning. In short, the fit should be snug but not too tight; it should be comfortable with some room to rotate the ring only slightly, since skin can expand in hot weather and contract in the cold. This should be taken into consideration at the time of purchase because it is not always possible to alter the size of a ring. Also note that a wide band will feel tighter than a narrow one of the same size as a result of the higher surface area of metal making additional contact with the skin.
A jeweler can determine your ring size by using blanks of predetermined size to ascertain the diameter of your finger. The three sizing methods used for calculating ring size are: U.S. sizes, metric sizes, and inside diameter. When altering the size of a ring, a measurement of the present ring size and the desired size is taken. Each incremental ring size in the U.S. is equal to 2.3mm. This means that if a ring is to be sized up, material must be added, usually to the back of the ring shank, unless there are stones set all the way around. If the size of the ring is to be decreased, material will be removed.
Images by Platinum Guild International.
To increase the size of a ring, a jeweler will take a fine saw blade and cut directly through the metal towards the back of the shank. A careful craftsperson will take care not to interfere with any manufacturer’s hallmarks, metal purity stamps, or other engraving. Once the cut is made, it is customary to create small grooves with a very small triangular file in the cross section of the shank. This gives the added material the ability to lock in place. Metal of the same karat and color is prepared to match the width of the ring to be sized. Usually, this piece is prepared in a slightly larger thickness so that a seamless blend can be made. The sizing stock is measured, cut and filed to slight tapers on each end, then fit into place in the grooves in the ring shank.
The sizing stock is permanently joined using a soldering method if the ring is karat gold, and welding if it is platinum. If there are stones present in the ring, they must be protected from the heat during this operation. Common protections include commercially prepared heat inhibitors or water. Stones can be coated with a heat inhibitor or wrapped with a water-soaked tissue or paper towel. Sometimes it is necessary to remove stones completely before sizing for added safety if the stones are extremely heat sensitive or are particularly rare or irreplaceable. If removing the stones compromises the integrity of the settings, laser weld technology is used.
Once the metal is joined, any oxidations or discoloration of the metal is removed and the connections are finessed so that they are unnoticeable. A quality ring sizing should be unnoticeable with no evidence of the hand of the jeweler.
If the ring is to be sized down, the portion to be removed is carefully measured, then cut. The ends are brought together by bending with pliers, tapping gently with hammers, or pulled together with a binding wire. Joining is done by soldering, welding, or laser welding.
Sometimes it is not possible to resize a ring. Sizing greater than 1.5 on the sizing scale can compromise the integrity of stone settings. As the back of the shank is opened up, the metal will compress on the top of the ring. Stones may shift out of their bearings and the girdles may touch. This can increase the risk of damage to the stones.
Eternity bands frequently prove problematic because it is unlikely that an area to be increased or decreased will equal the same measurement as the size adjustment. An eternity band generally can be done only if there is sufficient material to be removed from the entire inside diameter of the ring, increasing by no more than one size. Bands with stones set all the way around cannot be sized down without adding a guard or beads to the interior. Other methods of reducing the interior diameter include adding a bar or small circles. Frequently these bands will have to be remade.
Other considerations when determining whether to resize a ring include any textures that might be interrupted, engraving that may have to be redone, or stones that may have to be removed and reset. Be aware that the way a ring feels on the hand may fluctuate from time to time due to weather and body temperature changes. With a clear understanding of the ring sizing process and the challenges involved, the fine jewelry owner can make an informed decision if the resizing is required.
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