Merry and Bright
This season’s jewels warm up winter fashion with cheery imagery and brilliant color
It’s that time of year again, when we bundle up to brace for the cold, but this go-around we’ll be cozying up with such pieces as top-to-bottom knits, extreme turtlenecks, dresses over pants, Astrakhan fur and shearling. The oversized coat trend, with its curved lines and enormous sleeves, is sticking around from last fall, while the new “robe coat”—a topper that could double as a bathrobe—is nipping at its heels.

When it comes to accessories, jewelry will make the season bright with new design trends that align beautifully with iconic sights of the winter holiday season: ribbons and bows, confetti, snowflakes and messages of good cheer.

RIBBONS AND BOWS

Much like pink gemstones and pearls, ribbons and bows in jewelry design exude an exceptionally feminine charm. They’re fancy, they’re frilly and they add the perfect finishing touch to a piece, often wrapping themselves around a spectacular gemstone, heightening the excitement of what lies beneath. They’re also quite fashionable, emerging again this season as a strong motif in numerous jewelry collections.

Renowned jeweler Tiffany & Co., for instance, included two outstanding bow-themed pieces in its 2014 Blue Book Collection, an annual publication showcasing the designer’s latest and most spectacular jewels. One is the Diamond Bow Necklace, composed of strands of small and large round brilliant-cut diamonds set in platinum accented with a pavé-set diamond bow. The other is a matching pair of earrings that uses the bow as the post, while pavé-set diamond ribbons suspend along the neck. Then, of course, there’s The Tiffany Anniversary Morganite Necklace, a magical, one-of-kind creation that features a 175-carat morganite “tied” with a diamond bow.

Designers such as Gumuchian have a similar offering with its platinum and diamond Bowlero collection, featuring a multi-strand diamond necklace connected on each side by a diamond-set bow, as does Prediletto with its Bows collection in various precious metals and gemstones. Other designers such as Erica Courtney and Omi Privé use an abstract form to imply the idea, creating a ribbon-like effect with swirls of precious metal and micropavé-set gems for an equally elegant approach.

CONFETTI
When Karl Lagerfeld of Chanel filled the supermarket setting of his Fall/Winter 2014–2015 ready-to-wear show with brilliantly colored confetti-patterned clothing, the stage was set for an explosion of color in accessories that rivals those bits of brightly colored paper. It’s no surprise then that jewelry this season is chock-full of colored gemstones, often set in the spectrum of a rainbow. What’s more, the stones are bold and glowing, with many cut in the convex cabochon style that’s highly polished but not faceted.

Eli Frei’s linear earrings featuring citrine, amethyst, blue topaz, peridot and pink tourmaline set in yellow gold fit perfectly here, as does Goshwara’s multicolored Y necklace from the Mischief collection, also in yellow gold. Equally as festive is Tamara Comolli’s famous Flamenco bracelet in the Candy color scheme, which, with its clusters of colorful cabochons, is as enticing as a handful of Jujubes candy.

Complementing this vibrant look is the mosaic trend in fashion and jewelry, where various colors and materials form a picture or pattern. Dolce & Gabbana, in its Enchanted Sicily collection for Fall/Winter 2014–2015, gave us gorgeous ensembles encrusted in jeweled designs, topped off with huge crystal-flower statement necklaces. Jewelry designer Palmiero naturally comes to mind here with its Canvas collection, which combines diamonds and colored stones on a “canvas” of white gold to create exquisite “paintings.” Look to Nanis, too, and its Notredame collection that reflects the Rose Windows of the famous Paris cathedral.

LET IT SNOW
Jewelry with intricate cutouts, also called openwork jewelry (think the lacy pattern of a snowflake), continues its stronghold from spring, when sheer panels and perforated pieces in fashion were popular emphasizing that “skin is in.” We saw this again for fall, when models at Alex Mabille’s and Oscar de la Renta’s shows donned embroidered-tulle jogging trousers and Guipure lace evening jackets, respectively.

Jewelry designers on board with this trend are plentiful. After all, not only is openwork jewelry stylish, it also offers consumers a more lightweight and often less expensive option because there’s less metal involved. Carla Amorim rises to the occasion here with her scalloped-edge Genipabu Earrings in rose gold and diamonds from the Black Label collection, as does Mattioli with her Voronoi collection, also in rose gold and diamonds, that pays homage to the butterfly with openwork wings. Yoko London, meanwhile, gives us a magnificent necklace from its Masterpieces collection that showcases snowball-like Australian South Sea pearls on an openwork rose gold and diamond backdrop. Also superb is Katie Decker’s yellow gold Mini moonstone ring with diamond detailing that resembles a small piece of frozen water. And Tiffany & Co. offers a literal interpretation with its delicate platinum and diamond Snowflake pendants.

SEASON’S GREETINGS
When Albert Elbaz of Lanvin dressed his models for Fall/Winter 2013–2014 in gigantic necklaces and rings that spelled out such words as “love” and “happy,” he gave a literal meaning to the term “statement jewelry.” But even more than that, he turned jewelry into a greeting card, if you will, with a beautiful message for all to see.

Happily, other designers are doing the same. Couture fashion jewelry creator Red C Jewels, whose No Matchy-Matchy Earrings made this year’s “Oprah’s Favorite Things” list, has a number of such offerings, including its gold and diamond Love and Kisses earrings, Forever Love necklace and I Heart Y ring. Not only will they hold a special meaning for the wearer, they can’t help but put a smile on the face of the admirer. There’s also S&R DesignsFour Keeps collection, a series of see-through lockets that can be customized with precious little charms such as one that spells “love.”

And finally, for the digital age, we have Meeo Miia, a mother-daughter jewelry company specializing in jewelry designs inspired by secret codes, emoticons and social media abbreviations. Of particular note is the Digital Graffiti Heart necklace, which sends an instant love message to the world with such inscriptions as “<3” (heart) and “143” (the number of letters in the individual words “I love you”). No doubt we’ll be tweeting about it with hashtag #RAOK.
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